Time travel to a samurai village, check out Westminster Abbey, then swoon over the most opulent golden shrine in Japan

Nikko in Tochigi Prefecture

Nikko not only hosts my favorite must-see World Heritage Site in all of Japan, it’s home to two eye-popping theme parks—one that lets you wander around an authentically recreated samurai village dressed as the period character of your choice, and another that seems like it would be the acme of camp, but turns out to be astonishingly impressive. And it’s all just an easy weekend trip from Tokyo!

#1 Attraction: The Nikkō Toshōgu Shrine

There’s no greater “power spot” in all of Japan than the Nikko Toshougu Shrine, which combines the good luck abode of a dragon, the tomb of the mightiest shōgun of all time, and the World Heritage Site seal of approval.

Nikko Toshogu Shrine World Heritage Site

This shrine delivers pristine gold-and-red goodness at the highest level.

Nikko Toshogu Shrine World Heritage Site

It boasts a gorgeous five-story pagoda, with mossy lanterns galore

Pagoda at the Nikko Toshogu Shrine World Heritage Site

You can see the original hear-no-evil, speak-no-evil, see-no-evil monkeys

Famous monkey carving at the Nikko Toshogu Shrine World Heritage Site

And hunt down a few lovely easter eggs, like the furry elephants with claws (carved by someone who obviously had never seen a real elephant)…

Nikko Toshogu Shrine World Heritage Site

…and the famously elusive sleeping cat.

Famous carved sleeping cat at the Nikko Toshogu Shrine World Heritage Site

It’s also where the shōgun to end all shōguns—Ieyasu Tokagawa—is buried. His solemn tomb is as grand and awe-inspiring as you might expect.

Shogun's tomb Nikko Toshogu Shrine World Heritage Site

#2 Attraction: Tōbu World Square

Nikko is home to the fabulous theme park that’s entirely landscaped in bonsai trees and where you can visit over a hundred miniature world monuments in a day

Tobu World Square at Nikko Tochigi

In case you don’t remember from the last Japanagram, the models at this place are so amazing that if you do an online image search with a photo of one, it’ll deliver pictures of the real landmark.

Tobu World Square at Nikko Tochigi
Is it real or is it a model? (Hint: Miyajima really does look like this, but…)

Endless entertainment is provided by the 1:25 scale figures populating the famous scenes (easter eggs galore, if you look closely!)

Tobu World Square at Nikko Tochigi
The “rooster on a cat on a dog on a donkey” entertainment isn’t the only easter egg in this scene—look more carefully at the tourists and guess which American holiday is the model-maker’s favorite

And the quirky moments in time the model-makers chose to illustrate

Tobu World Square at Nikko Tochigi
King Charles may be getting crowned at the Westminster Abbey in London, but at the one in Nikko, he’s forever getting hitched

But the most amazing fact is that the landscaping around the 1:25 scale models is alive, and perfectly trained to match the buildings. How they cultivate so many bonsai on such a grand scale is one of the great mysteries of Japan.

Tobu World Square at Nikko Tochigi
If you didn’t know better, you’d think this photo was shot from a drone whizzing over the natural mix of trees and shrubs growing wild in the countryside.

(More amusing easter eggs and photos of this incredible place are here.)

#3 Attraction: Edo Wonderland Nikkō Edomura

And finally, set aside a day to immerse yourself in samurai life at Edomura, an entire town built to look like it would have during the three hundred years when the samurai ruled Japan.

Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura

Staff members dress in period clothing

Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura

And you can too! There’s a place right near the entrance where you can rent the costume of your choice and walk around in it for the day to make your visit even more immersive (and Instagrammable)! If you’ve ever longed to be a samurai lord, a ninja assassin, or the world’s most desirable geisha, now’s your chance.

Costume rental at Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura

They have tons of costumes to choose from, but here’s a small sample of roles for men, women and children:

Costume rental at Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura

Costumed or not, every building houses something interesting, and many showcase how traditional Japanese crafts were made and used.

Geta shop Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura
Footwear of yore
Woodblock print shop Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura
Woodblock printing

There are also two theaters, one for live performances, one showing a constant stream of shorts about geisha, oiran, ninjas and Edo Period life. All the movies and stage shows are included in the price of admission.

Oiran stage show at Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura
This one about the courtesans known as oiran features the kind of dance they actually performed.

In addition to the jail and other rarely-documented Edo town life spots, there’s a highly entertaining “ninja trick house” where the angles are so deceiving…

Ninja house at Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura

it’s genuinely hard to walk through it while keeping your balance

Ninja house at Edo Wonderland Nikko Edomura

And all of this entertainment is within a short train ride from central Nikko, which is a charming town filled with restaurants, inns and hotels at every price range, framed by a bridge that’s a destination photo in itself.

Famous red bridge Nikko Tochigi

Here’s where Nikko is:

And here’s a closer look to show where the main attractions are:

How to get to Nikkō from Tokyo:

Here’s the website where you can reserve and pay for tickets on Tobu railway express lines (the Kegon and the Spacia are the ones you might see recommended, depending on when you decide to leave Tokyo). The rest of the trains can be boarded with your Suica or PASMO transit card.

I used the Japan Navigation phone app to figure out this route, and you can easily use it too, with your actual date and preferred arrival time. It’s also good for finding the easiest way to get to Tokyo Station from where you’re staying. Here’s where to get the app and how to use it.

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Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Japan, produces the monthly Japanagram newsletter, and blogs at Only In Japan and The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had

2 thoughts on “Time travel to a samurai village, check out Westminster Abbey, then swoon over the most opulent golden shrine in Japan

    1. My sistah! I never seemed to make time to see those weird theme parks because the Toshogu Shrine is so good at expanding to to fill all the time. Kind of envious that you have such a great memory associated with it!

      Like

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