Ritsurin Koen in Takamatsu, Shikoku
You came, you saw, you appreciated all the art on Naoshima. But the memory that will stick with you from Takamatsu—the city you thought of as merely the jumping-off place for the art island ferry—is that perfect afternoon stroll through Ritsurin Koen.
This huge and stunning tea garden was built in 1745 for the local daimyō, and its beautifully stone-paved paths with their intricate bamboo fences invite exploration…
of the hills and valleys surrounding its enormous emerald pond. Ritsurin Koen is revered for illustrating the “borrowed scenery” illusion that the best Japanese gardens create—see how the hills beyond the garden walls make it look like the perfectly manicured landscape of Ritsurin goes on forever?
And it’s not just the grand vistas that make Ritusurin special. The many arched bridges…
lead from one perfect miniature landscape
to the next, each filled with pristinely pruned greenery
and occasional glimpses of the spectacular teahouse on the far shore.
Arriving at the teahouse, the stepping stones make it impossible to resist entering…
to enjoy a bowl of matcha tea and a seasonal tea ceremony sweet…
while viewing the garden from a whole new perspective. In May and June, this airy tearoom is opened up on all sides to welcome the warm spring air and encourage contemplation of the artfully composed rocks and trees…
while framing panoramic views of the surrounding wonders.
Many rare and quirky details are unique to Ritsurin Koen, from unusually-shaped stone basins…
to Seuss-ian signposts.
Naturally, there’s a lovingly cared-for pine that’s centuries old and surrounded by worshipful stones…
as well as a fine bonsai collection that draws attention to the fact that their full-sized brethren are shaped just as perfectly.
When the path brings you back around to where you started, pause to take advantage of one of my very favorite things about this garden: the shoe brushes! After a long stroll on manicured—but still dusty—paths, nothing is more pleasing than these handy brushes, upcycled from teahouse cleaning rags.
The shoe brush and courtesy foot stand in action!
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Here’s where Risturin Koen is:
As you can see, it’s not far from where the ferry leaves for Naoshima:
Whether you’re heading to the island of Shikoku to see art, do the famous 88-temple pilgrimage or bravely venture across the infamous vine bridge, you can use the Japan Navigation phone app to figure out the best way to get there, plugging in your actual date and preferred arrival/departure time. The app is also good for finding the easiest way to get to your departure point from where you’re staying. Here’s where to get the app and how to use it.
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Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Japan, produces the monthly Japanagram newsletter, and blogs at Only In Japan and The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had
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