At Hiyoshi Taisha Shrine near Lake Biwa
Is it still hot where you are, even though it’s September? It’s definitely still hot (and humid UGH) in Japan, and lately I’ve been dreaming of this cafe at the Hiyoshi Taisha shrine in Ōtsu.
I’m feeling cooler already after we pass through the shady orange torii gate and over this stone bridge, hearing the water rushing everywhere…
in precisely cut channels all over the grounds…
to the place that’s been living rent-free in my head for years, because I can’t imagine anything more refreshing than sipping an iced something in an open-air cafe that sits by a rushing river…
behind a waterfall! This cafe’s wall of water lends a sparkling soundtrack along with its curtain of cool.
And the shrine is nice too! People from the surrounding neighborhood have been stopping by to enjoy the shade under the towering trees…
since the year 668. Buddhism and Shintōism came to an agreement of mutual support a hundred years later, and that’s when the priests of this shrine joined the warrior monks of Mt. Hiei as spiritual guardians of the emperor and his capital city, Kyoto, and it became a major player in the politics of the region.
The shrine’s many grand gates are a reflection of its importance…
and its National Treasure buildings are excellent examples of the finest traditional Japanese joinery money could buy, constructed with intricate piecing instead of nails.
The resident gods of Hiyoshi Taisha can still be summoned by beautiful copper bells…
with lush bell-pulls.
And when the gods leave what must be the most beautiful shrine garage in the world, they ride in this spectacular o-mikoshi to survey their domain…
and they don’t forget to stop and give a nod to the horse figure representing the shinme “steeds of the gods” that used to be kept at every shrine in case a special messenger was needed to summon their help.
You don’t have to be a Shintō god to enjoy all the little waterfalls along the way, though. This shrine is especially rich in shady nooks for hot days!
Here’s where Hiyoshi Taisha is:
How to get to Hiyoshi Taisho from Kyoto:
I used the Japan Navigation phone app to figure out this route, and you can easily use it too, with your actual date and preferred arrival time. It’s also good for finding the easiest way to get to Tokyo Station from where you’re staying. Here’s where to get the app and how to use it.
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Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Japan, produces the monthly Japanagram newsletter, and blogs at Only In Japan and The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had
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