Itsukushima (Miyajima Island) in Hiroshima Prefecture
Most people think of visiting Miyajima as that short ferry ride from Hiroshima to snap obligatory pix of the floating World Heritage torii gate, but staying on the island delivers some serious delights that daytrippers never get to see.
For starters…the famous gate lit up at night!
The Itsukushima Shrine is lovely when reflected in the calm evening waters…
…and seeing the five-story pagoda against the night sky without a crowd is worth the price of an overnight stop.
But there’s more! Staying overnight means you can be up and out before the first boatloads of tourists arrive, and you’ll have the gorgeous foliage and first rays of sunlight at the famous leaf-viewing spots all to yourself.
As the mist rises through the trees…
lovely bridges lead up the hillside…
…to spots usually mobbed by camera-happy crowds
Watching the sun rise through the orange and gold in the quiet before everyone crowds in is a pleasure at any famous beauty spot…
…but being up early on Miyajima means we also have time to discover the many delights of the Daisho-in temple before climbing Mt. Misen.
It’s an impressive wooden temple that looks especially fine surrounded by autumn leaves…
…which turn its many hidden grottos into cathedrals of nature’s stained glass.
There’s a staircase lined with prayer wheels, to send your heart’s desire spinning toward heaven…
…and a Japanese garden where the paths are lined with Jizo figures wearing delightfully colorful caps.
Cheerful saintly figures are everywhere, if you look carefully…
…including a treasure hunt for children that features all their favorite game characters dotted about the grounds.
Even the memorial Buddha figures sport fashionable custom headgear.
Another special bonus of staying on the island is that you can climb the formidable Mt. Misen without worrying about catching the last ferry.
The most famous hiking trail starts here, with a torii gate to bless your ascent…
…and this is but the gateway to gorgeous new views around every bend. This particular route features over 2,000 stone steps for a serious 520 meter (1700 ft) elevation gain in only 3.8 km (2.4 mi), so be ready for your legs to feel like you broke the stairmaster the next morning.
When you get to the top, though, the 360 degree view does not disappoint!
Coming down is just as lovely, especially since you won’t be stuck behind anyone. They’ll still be on their way up!
If you’re planning to do this climb: It’s worth every step, but heed the warnings on the hiking review sites. The 2,000 stone steps won’t kill you on the way up, it’s coming down that will shred you. The irregular stairs are both steep and tall, which makes them especially punishing on the way back. Don’t start too late in the day, because 2.4 miles with a 1700 foot elevation shift takes a lot more time going up and coming down than the same distance does on flat ground. You definitely do not want to be stumbling down this trail in the dark.
And if you want to hit peak autumn leaf season, do an online image search mid-September for “Japan fall foliage forecast” and it will turn up maps like this, that show where each kind of tree is predicted to hit peak color in each region. If you go to the web page and scroll past the map, there will be more detailed charts showing dates for additional leaf spots.
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Here’s where Miyajima is:
How to get to Miyajima from Tokyo:
I used the Japan Navigation phone app to figure out this route, and you can easily use it too, with your actual date and preferred arrival/departure time. It’s also good for finding the easiest way to get to Tokyo Station from where you’re staying. Here’s where to get the app and how to use it.
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Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Japan, produces the monthly Japanagram newsletter, and blogs at Only In Japan and The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had
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