Unzen in Nagasaki Prefecture
Abandon hope, all ye who enter here! You’re about to enter a Japanese garden that’s like no other on earth. On the very-much-not-dormant volcanic flanks of Mt. Unzen on the southernmost Japanese island of Kyushu lies Unzen Hell (Unzen Jigoku), the volcanic wonderland at the heart of Unzen-Amakusa National Park.
A winding path bears us safely over the hot spots and boiling streams…
…through a landscape scarred by frequent eruptions (the last big one was in 1991).
Shrouded in steam from active fumaroles right and left, only the hardiest forms of life survive the heat and manage to grow in the mineral-laden soil.
Groundwater heated by lava that’s not nearly far enough below ground bubbles up through the ashy silt…
…and instead of refreshing waterfalls that make you feel cooler just looking at them, boiling hot springs gush from the earth and cascade over volcanic rocks, paving them with pale yellow sulfur crystals.
And how hot is the water? It’s hot enough to boil eggs! You can tell the ones below are just being put in to cook, because the sulfur in the steam turns them black by the time they’re done.
But what makes Unzen special compared to volcanically spectacular regions in other parts of the world? Traditional Japanese inns, of course! No hot spring with this much remoteness and vigor could escape being a magnet for those hoping for a cure for what ails them, and the inns around Unzen Hell have been taking advantage of its steaming, mineral-rich waters for centuries.
One such hostelry is the Unzen Miyazaki Ryokan, and it’s here we encounter the Japanese garden that’s straight outta Hades! Half of it features the same artfully arranged rocks, sculpted shrubbery and stone lanterns found in traditional gardens all over Japan, but instead of a koi pond…
…there’s a lake of bubbling mud!
If you’re as much of an exotic geology fan as I am, this is a must-see destination! It’s about the most remote place I’ve ever been in Japan (transportation-wise), but the hard travel is worth it. The inns clustered around this amazing spot have the same top-notch food, heavenly futons and relaxing hot spring baths as any luxury inn in the country, which makes the contrast with the raw power of the landscape feel even more amazing.
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Here’s where Unzen is:
And here’s a closer look at the Unzen peninsula
As you can see, the settled areas are mostly around the edges because it’s formed from one big volcano. As the crow flies, it’s not far from Nagasaki, but the route is roundabout because the terrain is so mountainous.
How to get to Unzen from Tokyo:
When you arrive at Nagasaki airport, go to the information desk and ask (in English) for information about where to catch the two buses. They will give you a map that shows the location of the bus stops. Trust me, this is easier than trying to figure it out once you get there, and will minimize the chances you will miss the bus on your itinerary and have to wait (sometimes a long time) for the next one. You can also show this itinerary to the bus driver and ask them to tell you when to get off.
I used the Japan Navigation phone app to figure out this route, and you can easily use it too, with your actual date and preferred arrival/departure time. It’s also good for finding the easiest way to get to Shinagawa Station from where you’re staying. Here’s where to get the app and how to use it.
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Jonelle Patrick writes novels set in Japan, produces the monthly Japanagram newsletter, and blogs at Only In Japan and The Tokyo Guide I Wish I’d Had
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